FAUBOURG SAINT-ANTOINE

Playing my Map Game before a trip to Paris, I was thrilled to draw L7. Faubourg Saint-Antoine is an area I first explored 37 years ago, during Rick’s first trip to France. Since he worked in the furniture industry, I thought it would be fun and interesting to stroll through the Paris neighborhood historically associated with menuisiers and ébénistes.

Passage du Chantier, the last vestige of the flourishing wood and furniture trade.

Chairs in various stages of construction, or renovation…

Private courtyard in passage du Chantier

For several centuries workers in this area outside the walls of Paris were exempt from taxes. Additionally, the proximity of the Seine meant that craftsmen had access to the wood supply coming into the capital. Already striving during the Middle Ages, Faubourg Saint-Antoine experienced its golden age during the XVII and XVIII centuries: its reputation in arts décoratifs was so well established that woodworkers, cabinet makers, upholsterers, and other artisans flocked from Holland and Germany to set up shop here.

Cour du Bel Air

Carriage entrance from rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine to cour des Bourguignons

Cour des Bourguignons. Charles-Auguste Hollande, a wood trader, had the two wings built between 1862 and 1866. They were rented to Maison Krieger and then to Henri Racault; both were furniture manufacturers who employed hundreds of artisans and wood workers.

The iron and glass structure was added in 1868, along with the 105’ brick chimney that topped a steam engine.

On both sides of rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, between Bastille and hôpital Saint-Antoine, craftsmen opened up courtyards and passages: ateliers occupied the first floor while the upper levels were used for housing. More than 200 workshops were registered in the XVII century, all involved in wood and complementary activities such as varnishing, ironwork, textiles, ceramics, porcelain, marble, wallpaper, etc. Courtyards were like mini “villages” that composed a high-density community of people with related interests.

Floral shop at the corner of avenue Ledru-Rollin. Love the name.

Square Trousseau just off the busy street. Haussmannian buildings on the other three sides. Classic music kiosk and playground for children. A locals’ favorite.

Blé Sucré, a well-known boulangerie-pâtisserie across from square Trousseau. Perhaps the best croissants in Paris…

Like most areas in the city, this quartier has gone through substantial transformations since my first visit in the early 80s. Lifestyle changes (hello, Ikea) and the availability of inexpensive furniture from Asia ushered the decline of artisanal activities that had flourished since medieval times.

Passage Saint-Bernard. Co-working and IT consulting have replaced the traditional activities. Nice mur végétal and an inviting rooftop terrace.

The mosaic rhinoceros on passage Raush. Just a few years ago, there were seven other wild animals on the arcades of this building. I guess they all managed to escape their cages!

East Mamma trattoria at passage de la Main d’Or. If Mamma is around, hipsters can’t be too far away…

Cour de l’Ours

Ebénisterie Straure in cour de l’Ours. The santon of a woodworker sits in the window of the atelier.

Staircases open to the courtyards and lead to the upper (residential) levels

Some staircases have not been “gentrified” yet…

Thankfully, urban planners had the good idea to protect the courtyards and buildings of the area. Some have been lovingly renovated and still house a few furniture makers and restorers. Designers, architects, galleries, home decor shops round up the offering. So far, the gentrification efforts are progressing at a much slower pace than in the neighboring Marais or the area south of Pigalle. I feel le faubourg du meuble has not lost its soul and, at least for now, manages to retain some of its original population.

Cour des Trois Frères

Cour des Shadoks (their creator Jacques Rouxel lived here)

Two Shadoks! These cartoon birds appeared on French TV in 1968. They were absurdly stupid and I loved them.

This could be your lunch break area if you worked in the cour des Shadoks

Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine straddles the 11th and 12th arrondissements (odd numbers on the 11th side, even on the 12th.) There is no significant monument or museum, which means the street is virtually free of tourists. That’s a good thing. If you like to stroll without an agenda, this is the perfect place to explore. You hardly need a map: start from Bastille and walk into every passage, courtyard, and porte cochère that’s open on the even side. When you reach rue de Citeaux, cross the street and repeat on the other side. Make sure to check the section of rue de Charonne up to avenue Ledru-Rollin: lots of gems there, too!

Passage Lhomme, off rue de Charonne

Passage Lhomme

Passage Lhomme. As you explore the neighborhood, you’ll see a lot of signage that evoke its original activities.

Cour Jacques Viguès; a little more “monumental” than most.

Cour Jacques Viguès

Floral shop tucked in a courtyard

Cour du Panier Fleuri. Where the floral shop should be…

Cour Damoye, a peaceful retreat just one block from place de la Bastille.

Perhaps you’ll find your ideal chair in the Faubourg Saint-Antoine. This one is still “in progress…”

Vocabulary
Le menuisier: woodworker
L’ébéniste (m): cabinet maker
L’atelier (m): workshop
Le quartier: neighborhood
Le faubourg du meuble: furniture district
La porte cochère: carriage entrance

LES FLEURS

I hooked up in Paris with my friend Raegan last September and she was interested in visiting some the places where I grew up. We took the RER to the suburbs east of Paris and got off at Noisy-Champs. We walked to my parents’ former house –where I lived until I moved to the US– and then to the elementary school I attended when I was 10 years old. We stood at the gate just before noon, where many mothers were waiting to pick up their children. I usually walked home on my own for lunch but Mom would often come to get me at the end of the school day, with a pain au chocolat, un pain aux raisins, or a chausson aux pommes for my goûter. 

Elisabeth, among her flowers

On a whim, I decided to head out to Parmi les Fleurs, a floral shop located a mere 100 meters from the school. It also happens to stand right across from the cemetery, which is always a desirable spot when you are in the floral business. None of my family members are buried there but the florist, Elisabeth, designed my wedding bouquet in 1982. She was one of my sister’s childhood friends. I hadn’t seen her since… well, my wedding. I instantly recognized her: the blond hair gave her away. It was fun to reconnect after all these years. Her shop looked beautiful; it was inviting and uncluttered, a suggestion of how the right floral arrangement can transform your space.

Rue de Babylone, 7th arr.

I don’t routinely draw comparisons between the French and American cultures but I do believe that we –the French– have a special relationship with flowers. Take weddings as an example. In the US, the bride pretty much makes all decisions on flowers (the bouquet and boutonnieres, of course, but also the arrangements that will be displayed at the church, reception, etc.) There is a lot of emphasis on theme, color, and coordination: there is a master plan and interference is not welcomed. When you live in France, you wouldn’t dream of attending a wedding and not sending your own flowers. Same thing for a funeral: it is de rigueur to send flowers, whether you’re able to attend or not. 

Rue Beaubourg, 3rd arr.

And there is Valentine’s, and Mother’s Day, and anniversaries. Even with no special occasion in sight, the French purchase a lot of flowers for their own homes; while growing up, I would often come home and notice that Mom had just bought a bouquet of mimosa, a pot of hyacinths or cyclamens, a bunch of tulips, or a bouquet composé. Just because it looked nice and smelled good.  My grandmother would cut roses, gladiolus, or dahlias from her garden and set them out in a vase on the kitchen table.

Rue Caulaincourt, 18th arr.

Floral shops in Paris are almost –almost– as ubiquitous as pharmacies and pâtisseries. Maybe that gives you an idea of where our priorities lie. When I perused a batch of photos recently, I realized that floral shops tend to be a favorite subject of mine. Maybe I should buy more fresh flowers instead of immortalizing them digitally? Anyway, I’m happy to share some of my favorite pictures of floral shops all over Paris. Sorry, no scratch and sniff yet… 

Rue Condorcet, 9th arr. Check out that mosaic!

Rue Duban in the 16h arr. in posh Passy.

Marché des Enfants Rouges, 3rd arr. with murals to match.

Boulevard Henri IV, 4th arr. Organized by color!

Avenue Ledru-Rolin, 12th arr.

Place du Dr. Félix Lobligeois, 17th arr.

Place de la Madeleine, 8th arr. There are several floral stalls on the eastern side of the church.

Rue des Martyrs, 9th arr. A flower bar...

Rue du Jourdain. 20th arr.

Vocabulary
Le pain au chocolat:  puff pastry (like a croissant) with a chocolate bar in the center
Le pain aux raisins: raisin snail-type pastry
Le chausson aux pommes: lit. a slipper with apples; half-moon shaped puff pastry filled with applesauce
Parmi les fleurs: among the flowers
De rigueur: customary
Le bouquet composé: lit. a composed bouquet of flowers, a floral arrangement
La pâtisserie: pastry shop

PARIS SOUS LA PLUIE

I woke up this morning to the sound of pouring rain, a welcome sound since California has been parched for too many months. I was scheduled to head out to the Bay Area for a trade show but the prospect of driving on wet roads today made me cringe for some odd reason. My mind was flooded with memories of hydroplaning on my way to San Francisco some fifteen years ago: the car spun 180º and I found myself facing incoming traffic, in the fast lane of the freeway. Not the most perfect moment, if you ask me.

Square des Peupliers in the 13th arrondissement

I decided to follow my gut and postponed my trip, which turned out to be an excellent decision: I later found out an eight-vehicle wreck blocked all lanes of the freeway and I would have been sitting in my car for a long time, with no exit path.  Instead, I lingered sous la couette for an extra half hour, listening to the gushing wind and the raindrops hitting the bedroom window. 

Rue des Iris at the Cité Florale, 13th arrondissement

Rain has become somewhat of an oddity for me; it’s the privilege of living in California. All bets are off when I go back to France: I’ve routinely purchased (and disposed of) many parapluies during my trips to Paris. It will ring a bell for those of you who have read my book!

Not a good day for the flea market at place d'Aligre in the 12th arrondissement!

February, May, July, October: for several years in a row, I just couldn’t get a break and I was getting soaked on every trip. It almost felt like payback for purging my wardrobe of manteaux and imperméables.

The pastel houses on rue Crémieux, a bit muted on a rainy day

For a photographer, rain can be a friend: even lighting, no harsh shadows, interesting reflections.

Rue Charles Baudelaire near square Trousseau in the 12th arrondissement. Sometimes, the umbrella gets in the way!

On the other hand, juggling camera and umbrella presents some challenges.

Rue Vieille-du-Temple in the 3rd arrondissement. Love the colorful umbrellas!

Sometimes, the best course of action is to find shelter in a café and rester au sec. 

Salon de thé Carette on place du Trocadéro, 16th arrondissement

Enjoy an espresso or a glass of wine. 

The slate roof of the Musée national d'Histoire naturelle, across from Gare d'Austerlitz

Or hit a museum. 

La Canopée in the 1st arrondissement. The latest addition to the Halles district.

Or check out the unusual gutter system of the Canopée des Halles. 

A Parisian dog practicing his people-watching skills

Or sit en terrasse, under the gas heaters, and watch the world go by. 

Café Marguerite on quai de Gesvres. On a clear day, the bouquinistes green stalls would be open.

Rain or shine, it’s still Paris after all.

Vocabulary

Sous la pluie: under the rain
Sous la couette: under the duvet
Le parapluie: umbrella
Le manteau: coat
L’imperméable (masc.): raincoat
Rester au sec: to stay dry
En terrace: at the terrace
Les bouquinistes: used books sellers on the quais of the Seine